Guide · Padel

How to measure padel ball pressure at home - the FIP requirements and what you can test yourself

The FIP requires an internal pressure of 4.6 to 5.2 kg per 2.54 square centimetres for an approved padel ball. That's equivalent to 10.4 to 11.7 PSI, and it's the baseline level a ball needs to hit to feel the way a padel ball should. When you're holding a tube that has been open for two weeks, that's the number you'd like to know whether the ball is still close to. The problem is that the FIP doesn't have an official deformation test like the ITF has for tennis balls, and no home equipment gives you an exact PSI reading. But you can get much closer to the truth than a guess.

24 June 2026 · 8 min read · Written by Balcour

Why padel balls are harder to test at home than tennis balls

The ITF has an official deformation test for tennis balls, with precise required values in the range of 0.50 to 0.60 cm forward deformation under an extra load of 8.165 kg. You can approximate that test at home with kitchen scales and a book, and we've written a separate guide on how to do it. For padel, things are different.

The FIP approves balls mainly on physical properties such as weight (56-59.4 g), diameter (6.35-6.77 cm), bounce (135-145 cm from a 254 cm drop) and internal pressure (4.6-5.2 kg per 2.54 square centimetres, equivalent to roughly 10.4-11.7 PSI). There's no equivalent of the ITF's deformation procedure as an official FIP test for new balls. That means your home tests have to lean on the bounce test and a comparative squeeze/compression check to give a reliable picture.

The other difference is how small a padel ball's pressure margin is. A tennis ball's 14 PSI versus a padel ball's roughly 11 PSI means the same absolute pressure drop hits the padel ball harder in percentage terms. If both balls lose 1 PSI, the tennis ball loses around 7 percent and the padel ball around 9 percent. That's part of the reason padel balls feel sluggish sooner than tennis balls after the same number of sessions.

📋 FIP specifications for an approved padel ball

Internal pressure: 4.6-5.2 kg per 2.54 square centimetres (roughly 10.4-11.7 PSI)

Diameter: 6.35-6.77 cm

Weight: 56.0-59.4 g

Bounce: 135-145 cm from a 254 cm drop onto a hard surface

Test temperature: 20 degrees Celsius

What the FIP requirements tell you about a fresh padel ball

The pressure requirement of 4.6-5.2 kg per 2.54 square centimetres is the factor that directly affects how the ball feels on the strings. When the pressure drops below 4.6 kg per 2.54 square centimetres, the ball moves outside the FIP specification and feels more sluggish on contact. Below roughly 3.5 kg per 2.54 square centimetres, the ball is clearly outside the usable range for club and competitive play.

The bounce requirement is the number you can test directly as a player. 135-145 cm from a 254 cm drop gives a bounce ratio of 53-57 percent. If your ball comes in below 130 cm, the internal pressure has dropped significantly. Below 120 cm, the ball is so far below specification that it plays poorly. Diameter and weight hardly change over time - they stay stable even on very used balls - so they're not what you test for wear.

The three tests you can realistically do at home

There are three practical home tests for padel balls. Each one tells you something different and has a different level of reliability. Use them together as a set, not one at a time.

  1. The bounce test. The only test that can be compared directly with the FIP requirement. The most reliable indicator of internal pressure.
  2. The squeeze test. Quick, and gives an instant impression of pressure and rubber stiffness combined. The least reliable on its own, but useful as a checkpoint.
  3. Comparative compression test. Needs a brand-new reference ball and a few minutes with kitchen scales. The most informative about rubber stiffness - the parameter the bounce test alone can't pick up.

Each test takes less than 5 minutes. Together they give a picture that's far more reliable than feel alone, which is how most club players judge their balls today.

The bounce test - your most reliable indicator

The bounce test is the most important one because it measures exactly the parameter the FIP requirement is built around. You need two things: a 254 cm tape measure and a hard, flat surface. A garage floor, a tiled hallway or a hard basement floor. Not a wooden floor with carpet underneath, not damp concrete, not uneven tiles.

  1. Let the ball sit at room temperature (20 degrees) for 30 minutes. Temperature affects both pressure and rubber stiffness - a cold ball tests differently from a warm one.
  2. Hold the tape measure vertically against a wall. Drop the ball from exactly 254 cm.
  3. Measure the top of the bounce. That's the height where the ball turns at the top of its first bounce. Use a phone in slow-motion mode if you find it hard to see with the naked eye.
  4. Do 3 attempts per ball and use the average.

🎯 How to read the bounce figure

135-145 cm: Within the FIP-approved range - the ball meets the requirement

125-134 cm: Slightly below specification - still usable for club play, noticeably slower than new

115-124 cm: Clearly below specification - fine for recreational play or warm-ups, but not serious play

Below 115 cm: The ball is finished - pressure and bounce are too far from spec

The bounce test alone doesn't catch everything. A ball can have a bounce close to the requirement and still feel softer on the strings because the stiffness of the rubber core has changed. That's what the next test tries to pick up.

The squeeze test - quick, but only a rough checkpoint

The squeeze test is the one most club players do without thinking about it. You take the ball between your thumb and index finger and press. A fresh ball gives only a little - you feel firm resistance after a few millimetres of compression. A worn ball gives more - you feel it yield under pressure and spring back more slowly.

The problem is that the squeeze test is highly subjective. What one player calls "soft", another calls "normal". It catches the extremes but is poor at telling a new ball from one that is 30 percent through its life. Use the squeeze test as a first check: if the ball clearly feels softer than the new reference, carry on with the bounce and compression tests to get a number you can act on.

The comparative compression test - the most informative about the rubber

This test is a home version of the principle the ITF uses for tennis balls. You measure how much a test ball compresses under a fixed load compared with a new reference. It tells you whether the rubber core has become softer, independently of the bounce.

🛠️ What you need

Two balls: A brand-new one as a reference and the ball you want to test

Digital kitchen scales: With a large flat base

A hard, flat book or chopping board: To press the balls down evenly

A ruler: In millimetres

5 minutes

  1. Let both balls sit at 20 degrees for 30 minutes.
  2. Put the kitchen scales on a sturdy table. Tare them.
  3. Place the new ball on the scales and note its diameter measured with the ruler (a fresh FIP-approved padel ball is 6.35-6.77 cm).
  4. Lay the hard book on top of the ball so it sits flat.
  5. Press down evenly on the book with your hands until the scales show an extra 6 kg. A padel ball is smaller and is tested with less force than a tennis ball. Keep the pressure constant.
  6. Measure the ball's compressed height between the table and the book while you hold the pressure. That's your reference deformation.
  7. Release the pressure. Let the ball rest for 30 seconds.
  8. Repeat exactly the same procedure with the test ball. The same 6 kg on the scales, the same measurement.
  9. Compare the two numbers. If the test ball compresses noticeably more than the new one, the rubber has become softer.

The test is comparative, not absolute. You won't get a certified figure. You get an indication - and that indication is precise enough to make an informed decision about whether the ball should be replaced.

What the numbers typically mean in practice

A combination of all three tests tells you more than any single test. A table helps you put the results together.

📊 How to read the results together

Bounce 140 cm + squeeze feels normal + 5-15% more compression than the reference: A fresh or nearly fresh ball. Playable at every level.

Bounce 130 cm + squeeze feels slightly soft + 15-25% more compression: Noticeable decline. Still usable for club and recreational play, but won't give a tournament feel.

Bounce 120 cm + squeeze feels clearly soft + 25%+ more compression: The ball is on its way out. Use it for warm-ups or casual play, but not serious play.

Bounce below 115 cm + the ball noticeably gives way when squeezed: The ball is finished. Pressure and rubber are out of spec.

If you'd like to compare with the tennis equivalent, it's in our guide to measuring tennis ball pressure at home. Home testing for tennis relies more on deformation, because the ITF has a precise required value to aim for, whereas padel relies mainly on bounce.

What to do if your balls fail the test

If your balls fail the test after three weeks, it's either the pressure or the rubber (or both) that has changed. A rubber core that has gone soft can't be made firm again. Lost pressure can partly be rebuilt by storing the balls under higher pressure, but only if they still have some life left in them - completely flat balls can't be brought back.

The interesting question is how to avoid getting there too quickly. The one big factor is how the balls are stored between sessions. Our guide to storing padel balls covers what helps and what doesn't. Winter storage is a separate challenge covered in its own guide.

Our Pressurebox Pro keeps the pressure constant between sessions. It takes pressure loss out of the equation and leaves the natural wear of the rubber as the only variable that changes over time. That means your bounce test stays reliable for longer, and your comparative compression tests pick up real changes in the rubber instead of being muddied by pressure loss.

If you want to see the overall cost picture over a year of padel, read our article on what padel balls cost a year. And if you're looking for clear signs that a ball needs replacing without doing a test, see our guide to when to change padel balls.

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